Review: Mary’s (Newtown)

Mary’s: The Burger Pioneer

The minute you go in, nevermind that, even when trying the find the place, you will realise that this isn’t your typical hipster trendy joint.
It’s more like an American bikey underground cult. Underground, because it’s extremely dark and cult – you will understand when you see the decor. The bar’s wall looks like an alter with a prominent portrait of Pierre Marco White at the centre surrounded by liquor bottles as you would see a portrait of Jesus surround by candles in a church.
The informal service and heavy metal music even mysterious girl is loud but does fit well with the theme. There is ample seating consisting of small 4 seater table and high tables too. Orders are placed at the bar and the Kurt Cobain waiter might seem disinterested but he is real and skillfull – able to balance 8 sets of burgers on a tray.


marys_newtown_marys_burgerMary’s Burger is the closest burger to Melbourne’s Huxtaburger and probably most accurately described as the most authentic American burger – no brioche bun, no aioli, no beetroot in sight. I like it a lot: the soft bun melts in the mouth, the beef patty is firm but still moist and the salad fresh but no crunch and this seems to be intended to not interfere with the burger. Overall the texture and flavours work well together. The shoestring fries were cooked perfectly, just imagine freshly fried Maccas fries but twice as good and a little thinner and with free flow ketchup.


marys_newtown_half_bird_fried_chickenOne of the best friend chicken I’ve had in a while. Why is it worth the price? it’s de-boned where it is annoying but kept in the drumsticks and wings. The chicken is cooked to perfection; moist inside that above average thick battered skin without being oily or feeling oily in the mouth. Even the breast pieces were succulent and moist which is always a good sign of quality execution. The spices in the batter might be too overwhelming for some but I liked it.


Their image is underground, no bullshit and not the place to bring out your parents type place. The service is of course not exceptional/conventional but it fits the theme and adds to the experience, however their customer service was tested when they got my order wrong, no fuss was made, waiter came up to say “we fucked up” with apologies and fixed it with the error in my favour with no extra charge and I was very satisfied how it was dealt with. The food is the star: classic American staples executed perfectly with personality. There are also lots of cocktails on offer but didn’t try any at this time around.

Would I go again?


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